16th century fashion francesequence of words crossword clue
[45], Fashionable shoes for men and women were similar, with a flat one-piece sole and rounded toes. One description mentions strings being attached to the stirrup or foot to hold the skirts in place when riding. In order to be considered beautiful (and fashionable), an early modern woman must also be virtuous. The most expensive zibellini had faces and paws of goldsmith's work with jewelled eyes. The dress was accompanied by black leather shoes. Mining of coal, tin, and lead flourished. For centuries, the owners of an ancestral estate have sought to secure within its walls the worlds they lost. [4], Linen ruffs grew from a narrow frill at neck and wrists to a broad "cartwheel" style that required a wire support by the 1580s. [35][36], Cochineal, madder, and vermilion were used as dyes to achieve the bright red effects on the cheeks and lips. This is actually thanks to an Englishman named Charles Frederick Worth, who founded The House of Worth, the first modern couturier house in Paris. This intricately carved medieval saddle, used ceremonially, celebrates life, love, the arts, and conquest of demons and dragons. Lucrezia Borgia's dress from Assassins Creed - Italian fashion 16th century - A Renaissance dress. Smocks were made of rectangular lengths of linen; in northern Europe the smock skimmed the body and was widened with triangular gores, while in Mediterranean countries smocks were cut fuller in the body and sleeves. In the 1480s the fashions of Florence shine, immortalized in the work of Ghirlandaio and Botticelli, who create an enduring ideal of beauty and demonstrate the connection between contemporary fashion and the dress of the ancient Greeks and Romans. [20][25], Skirts were held in the proper shape by a farthingale or hoop skirt. May 27, 2014 - Explore Nicolin Bray's board "16th Century French Clothing", followed by 349 people on Pinterest. This make-up, called Ceruse, was made up of white lead and vinegar. This decade is the beginning of the transition to sixteenth-century fashion. Montupet, Janine, and Ghislaine Schoeller: Munro, John H. "Medieval Woollens: Textiles, Technology, and Organisation". Toddler boys wore gowns or skirts and doublets until they were breeched. Ruffles got associated with neckband of a shirt and was shaped with clear folds. People. Use of waistcoats and breeches continued. During the 16th century, clothing became more extravagant and richly decorated. Fashion History Wiki is a FANDOM Lifestyle Community. This fast-developing industry gave rise to a new type of worker, the Canuts. At the courts of Burgundy and France, men and womens silhouettes were elongated and angular, from the tops of womens conical headdresses to the points of mens poulaine shoes. Isabella of Portugal, Duchess of Burgundy, painted by Rogier van der Weyden in 1450, is depicted wearing the latest styles of the Burgundian nobility. Viscountesses and baronesses, among others, however, were not allowed to wear this material. Long cloaks were worn in cold and wet weather. Guided Tour of the Eiffel Tower + Summit access, Arc de Triomphe: Skip The Line + Rooftop Access, Top 10 Things to do Around the Eiffel Tower, 10 Things to Do in Paris on Christmas Day (2022), 10 Things to Do in Luxembourg Gardens in Paris. The longer lengths were more popular for travel and came with many variations. The fashion magazine giant Vogue was published in Paris for the first time in 1920, and not far behind, in 1925, designer Coco Chanel debuted her first collection. The ever-evolving French clothing tradition has remained an inspiration for fashionistas, says, REDUCE YOUR IMPACT WITH OUR NEW SERVICES | KNOW MORE, Zydex | Sustainable Technologies For A Greener Future | LEARN MORE, How to Reduce Your Fabric Waste by 2.5% & Increase Profits| Register Now. For example, the atifet was a later, flatter version of the French hood. By: THE BEGINNING OF FASHION ILLUSTRATION. The views and opinions of the authors who have submitted articles to Fibre2fashion.com belong to them alone and do not reflect the views of Fibre2fashion.com. Men's overcoats were designed with fur of velvet collars. Merchants used their profits from manufacture and trade to rival aristocrats as the greatest consumers of Italian silk velvets and other luxuries. Corsets in the 16th century were light, flexible garments intended to support the torso and provide shape to, as well as distribute the weight of, heavy dresses that were fashionable at the time. Almost all of the most famous French fashion houses have their headquarters in Paris, and the city is home to Paris Fashion Week, a biannual week long event featuring fashion shows from French and international designers. The Spanish cloak or cape was well known to be stiff, have a very decorated hood and was worn to the hip or waist. [43], Venetians were semi-fitted hose reaching just below the knee.[42]. Francis I is a bon vivant, who loves the hunt, big banquets, balls, women, and artistic exuberance. This all changed in the 1960s with the introduction of prt--porter(ready-to-wear in French). RM KKP6AM - Suits of armour. With the emergence of The House of Worth, many other French fashion houses got their start. RM 2BJR2P0 - A Spanish soldier of the 16th century. Shirts and chemises were embroidered with blackwork and edged in lace. The cloak was worn to the ankle, waist or fork. A turban-like headdress worn during the Middle Ages in Western Europe. Overall, the silhouette was narrow through the 1560s and gradually widened, with emphasis at the shoulder and hip. The dresses usually had a square neckline (low cut to show some breast but modest enough to not ruin their reputation). In the 16th century, Paris became the book-publishing capital of Europe, though it was shaken by the French Wars of Religion between Catholics and Protestants. Hats were decorated with a jewel or feather, and were worn indoors and out.[33]. Winter dress for women was trimmed with fur. The neckline was fitted with trimmed fabric or lace ruffle and a neckerchief (scarf). To support our blog and writers we put affiliate links and advertising on our page. As in the first half of the century, shoes were made from soft leather, velvet, or silk. The French fashion magazine, This all changed in the 1960s with the introduction of, (ready-to-wear in French). Other nobles (lesser ones) were allowed only to wear foxes and otters. Contact us! Pognon, Edmond, Pol de Limbourg, and Jean Colombe. From Portugal, Spain, and . The parts of the kirtle or petticoat that showed beneath the gown were usually made of richer fabrics, especially the front panel forepart of the skirts.[20][21]. As the Queen was always required to have a pure image, and although women's fashion became increasingly seductive, the idea of the perfect Elizabethan women was never forgotten. A ruffle, frill, or furbelow is a strip of fabric, lace or ribbon tightly gathered or pleated on one edge and applied to a garment, bedding, or other textile as a form of trimming. Women's fashions of the early 16th century consisted of a long gown, usually with sleeves, . The Juppe had a relation to the safeguard and they would usually be worn together. Their style consisted of styles that resembled Greek or Roman tunics, and were made of linen and gauze, and they wore sandals to match. France, and Paris in particular, has been the Fashion capital of the world basically since the industry began hundreds of years ago. I cant help but wonder what it must have been like to experience it as a member of the French court in the 16th century. During the 1460s the differences between the fashions of Italy and those of northern Europe deepened. It was a highly decorated cloak. The group scandalized Paris at the time, but that was all apart of their image and charm. Choose from 16th Century Fashion stock illustrations from iStock. Jewelry was also popular among those that could afford it. These derived from the flat hat of the previous period, and over time the hat was stiffened and the crown became taller and far from flat. Attire of Maurice, Elector of Saxony. (40.00 / Unit) Add to basket. After the bloody French Revolution, who can blame them?! At the same time, regional influence held strong both in Italy and Spain. Crowfoot, Elisabeth, Frances Pritchard, and Kay Staniland. Categories. [7], The Elizabethan era had its own customs and social rules that were reflected in their fashion. Fashion in the period 1550-1600 in Western European clothing was characterized by increased opulence. The elaborate fashions of the court of France that were dominant throughout Europe reached their peak in 1415. Clothing began to be mass manufactured and in turn was more affordable. The short-waist dresses adorned with soft, loose skirts were fabricated with white, transparent muslin. Under King Louis reign, the creation of the fashion press thrust France into the spotlight, and was the first of its kind to separate different styles into seasons. Dauncey, Hugh, ed., French Popular Culture: An Introduction, New York: Oxford University Press (Arnold Publishers), 2003. Chanel's boyish, simple, and elegant designs were embraced in contrast to the usual designs meant for full-figured women. It is thanks to these artists that the term fashion designer exists today! A piece of linen which passes under the chin and is pinned at the sides, usually worn in conjunction with additional head coverings during the Middle Ages. Crossbowman's suit 6. Fashion between 1795 and 1820 in European countries transformed into informal styles involving brocades and lace. I have my bachelors degree in Fashion Merchandising, and although writing is my passion now, my favorite part of my studies was the historical side of fashion! Grew, Francis, and Margrethe de Neergaard, eds. Check out our 16th century fashion selection for the very best in unique or custom, handmade pieces from our shops. A mother and daughter have taken on the ultimate property renovation challenge! [4][14][19][20][21], The common upper garment was a gown, called in Spanish ropa, in French robe, and in English either gown or frock. Fibre2fashion.com does not endorse or recommend any article on this site or any product, service or information found within said articles. Women's fashion in 16th century was ever-changing as we can see from the various headdresses and hats there were many styles to choose from and I'm sure the . French fashion varied between 1750 and 1775. In Spain, the cone-shaped Spanish farthingale remained in fashion into the early 17th century. This decade is the beginning of the transition to sixteenth-century fashion. Europe was also looking outward. 16th Century French Castle Transforms into Glorious Boutique Hotel - Take a Peek Inside. France, always the leader of fashion, soon warrants four groups of craftsmen to work together to create high-quality folding fans for nobility. Antoine de Saint-Chamand, Seigneur de Mery, an unknown lady and Henry IV of France, 1600 . The hippy movement did not go unnoticed in Paris, and this became a major trend in the 1960s and 70s. Many embroidered and bobbin-lace-trimmed English coifs survive from this period. A robe volante, derived from negligee, which was worn during the latter years of the reign of Louis XIV (1638-1715), enjoyed popularity as formal wear in the early 18th century. The slashing technique, seen in Italian dress in the 1560s, evolved into single or double rows of loops at the shoulder with contrasting linings. High-necked bodices styled like men's doublets might fasten with hooks or buttons. Their hair was parted in the centre and they wore tight ringlets in the ears. Photo by - Image Broker , This photo is about 16th century, colorized, contemporary history, cultural history, culture, drawing, drawn, epoch, Europe, fashionable . [28][29], Besides keeping warm, Elizabethans cloaks were useful for any type of weather; Over the shirt men wore a doublet with long sleeves sewn or laced in place. Later, a conical felt hat with a rounded crown called a capotain or copotain became fashionable. London: Blackwell, 2001. Fashions were often inspired by the monarch, both Henry VIII and Elizabeth I being influential upon what their subjects wore. When I approached my advisor to tell him that I was interested in studying abroad, he told me that Paris would be my best choice. This obviously isn't everything when it comes to Tudor clothing in the 16th century, so stay tuned for a part 2 and possibly part 3! [45], Gloves were often used as a social mediator to recognize the wealthy. Anyone using the information on Fibre2fashion.com, does so at his or her own risk, and by using such information agrees to indemnify Fibre2fashion.com, and its content contributors from any and all responsibility, loss, damage, costs and expenses (including legal fees and expenses), resulting from such use. DeJean, Joan, the Essence of Style: How the French Invented High Fashion, Fine Food, Chic Cafes, Style, Sophistication, and Glamour, New York: Free Press, 2005, ISBN978-0-7432-6413-6, 3. During this period the Medieval Clothing styles that people wore kept changing, the main reason for this was that the king demanded it and it was easier to do as new materials such as fabric were being introduced during the Medieval period. Sleeves and women's skirts then began to widen again, with emphasis at the shoulder that would continue into the next century. Since the 16th century, Milan has been regarded as the Fashion Capital of the World. represented wealth and luxury while tanned skin meant you were a common laborer. ISBN0870995707. Patronage of Jean de Berry (13401416). The Mets Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History. These include: taller collars than normal, upturned collar or no collar at all and sleeves. Wealthy women's smocks were embroidered and trimmed with narrow lace. Stockings or hose were generally made of woven wool sewn to shape and held in place with ribbon garters. [32] Gloves of perfumed leather featured embroidered cuffs. 4.French fashion features very short pansied slops over canions and peascode . Certain materials such as cloth of gold could only be worn by the Queen, her mother, children, aunts, and sisters, as well as duchesses, marchionesses, and countesses. But as there are no Scottish sources, these are precious witnesses of Scottish clothing in the 16th century. > Charles Quint reu par Franois 1er . Cunnington, Phillis, Catherine Lucas, and A. D. Mansfield. Black was difficult and expensive to dye, and seen as luxurious, if in an austere way. In addition to using make-up to achieve a pale complexion, women in this era were bled to take the color out of their faces. Lansquenete headdress. Waistlines rose, but was eventually replaced by a long lean line with low waist. Partlets worn over the smock but under the kirtle and gown were typically made of lawn (a fine linen). Specs. Boots were worn for riding. Haute Couture was (and still is!) The Rise and Fall of Renaissance France, 1483-1610. Fine textiles could be dyed "in the grain" (with the expensive kermes), alone or as an over-dye with woad, to produce a wide range of colours from blacks and greys through browns, murreys, purples, and sanguines. Le Marais in the 3rd and 4th arrondissements is also famous for its shopping, designer and vintage alike. 2. Married and grown women covered their hair, as they had in previous periods. Fashion during this decade turned away from extravagance and towards simplicity. 1300-1349, 1350-1399, 14th century, 15th century, B, Middle Ages, term definition. 0.1 MB. For many, French fashion is the epitome of style. England borrowed many fashions from other countries and sometimes adopted them as their own. Finally, in the late 19th century, it made a come back. After the horrors of WWII, women were ready to treat themselves to the luxuries of fancy fabrics and elegant designs. Fashion designers still get inspired by 18th century creations. 1. By the 1580s these had been adapted in England as padded and jeweled shoulder rolls. Photo from airbnb. In 16th century, BIPOC, blog. Download . IV - French hood, worn over a coif; English, c. 1525. Ruffs were worn throughout Europe, by men and women of all classes, and were made of rectangular lengths of linen as long as 19 yards. Tags. In France however, slashing slowly went out of fashion and coloring the soles of footwear red began. During the 16th century, clothing became more extravagant and richly decorated. Silhouette, which refers to the line of a dress or the garment's overall shape, was wide and conical for women and square for men in the 1530s. Focusing on the shoulder point, sleeves and skirts for women were widened. Women wore sturdy overskirts called safeguards over their dresses for riding or travel on dirty roads. The New Look included a collection of dresses with very small waists and full skirts. Famous designers of the time included Jeanne Paquin, Paul Poiret, and the House of Patou. 1799 Paris ladies full winter dress caricature by Cruikshank WikiCommons. In that year, the French defeat at the hands of the English at the Battle of Agincourt, in part because they were over-armored and over-dressed, forced a reckoning. They were the first to recognize clothing as a business, and have been exporting their products since the 17th century. [14][19][42], Pluderhosen were a Northern European form of pansied slops with a very full inner layer pulled out between the panes and hanging below the knee. Have a source to suggest that you don't see here? Aug 26, 2020 Steve Palace. Slops or galligaskins were loose hose reaching just below the knee. Costume in the second half of the 16th century. Check Amazons best-seller list for the most popular travel accessories. Original Antique French Folio Print for Friedrich Hottenroth's trs apprci 'Le costume, les armes, les bijoux, la cramique, les ustensiles, outils, objets mobiliers, etc' vers 1885 - Pas une reproduction moderne, il s'agit d'une lithographie originale du XIXe sicle. 1450-1459, 15th century, artwork analysis. Today, it is a must accessory with modern business suits. Vector image of clothes from middle ages. Tech student in the department of fashion technology in Bannari Amman Institute of Technology, Sathyamangalam, Coimbatore, and Tamil Nadu. Through the 1570s, a soft fabric hat with a gathered crown was worn. It is thanks to these artists that the term fashion designer exists today! Lower classes wore them almost as tool belts with the upper classes using them as another place to add jewels and gems alike. Fashions in the colonial cities were largely based on fashions in the home country, but French fashion affected women's wear throughout Europe and the colonies. In the 1750s, the size of hoop skirts got smaller and was worn with formal dresses with side-hoops. French King Henry III, who ruled from 1574 to 1589, set new standards for French luxury and popularized the use of lace for men, though his critics said that he dressed too . Landsknetch Barett. Beginning in the second half of the 16th century, many men had trimmed tips off of the fingers of gloves in order for the admirer to see the jewels that were being hidden by the glove. In the 1810s, dress for women was designed with soft, subtle, sheer classical drapes with raised back waist and short-fitted single-breasted jackets. French King Louis XIV helped make France the leading fashion influence of the century as he built it into an economic power by refusing to import luxury goods and by encouraging French industries to become Europe's biggest producers of these. Parisian designer, In addition to that, Paris is home to the famous, If you havent already, book a trip to Paris to check out the amazing fashion for yourselves! [28][30][31], The fashion for wearing or carrying the pelt of a sable or marten spread from continental Europe into England in this period; costume historians call these accessories zibellini or "flea furs". The dress tightly hugged the body with a low and broad neckline and adjusted shoulder. [38] Optionally, a jerkin, usually sleeveless and often made of leather, was worn over the doublet. Marie-Antoinette popularized sky-high wigs, putting feathers in her hair, and custom made dressed by designer Rose Bertin. III - Early Beguin headdress; Flemish, c. 1500. After King Louis XIV, comes his son, King Louis XVI and his wife, Queen Marie-Antoinette. This was brought about by making five or six folds distended by paper or horsehair and by the black ribbon worn around the neck to give the effect of the frill. Fashions were often inspired by the monarch, both Henry VIII and Elizabeth I being influential upon what their subjects wore. New York: The Morgan Library & Museum, 2011. . Sleeves were cut with frills or ruffles with fine linen attached to the smock sleeves. Appena montato / arruffato in un nuovo supporto pronto per essere . Aside from slashing, shoes in this period could be adorned with all sorts of cord, quilting, and frills. In 20th century, designer profile, LGBTQ+, In 2010-2019, 21st century, decade overview, In 1980-1989, 20th century, year overview, In 1870-1879, 19th century, artwork analysis, In 17th century, 18th century, 19th century, 20th century, A, Africa, BIPOC, term definition, In 1900-1909, 1910-1919, 20th century, blog, https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/wp-content/plugins/zotpress/, Gilbert Adrians evening dress is fashionable be, This 1862 French cream and mint silk day dress dem, Rose-Adlade Ducreuxs 1791 self-portrait dep, The foundation of womens dress in the 1450s con, For her 1840 wedding to Prince Albert, Queen Victo, The leg-of-mutton sleeve was worn by men and women, The Trs Riches Heures du Duc de Berry was an ill, This dramatic motorcycle-inspired bustier from Mug, Franz Winterhalters 1865 portrait of Empress El, The Jazz Age: American Style in the 1920s (2017), Addressing the Century: 100 Years of Art and Fashion (1998), 100 Dresses: The Costume Institute, The Metropolitan Museum of Art (2010), We Were There: Harlie Des Roches on the Black Presence in Renaissance Europe, Hymn to Apollo: The Ancient World and the Ballets Russes, Frida Kahlo: Appearances Can Be Deceiving, Grand Opening of the Museum of Historical Costume in Poznan, Poland, https://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/berr/hd_berr.htm, Beauty Adorns Virtue: Italian Renaissance Fashion, 1416 Limbourg Brothers, April, Trs Riches Heures du Duc de Berry, 1440 Fra Filippo Lippi, Portrait of a Woman with a Man at a Casement, 1449 Petrus Christus, A Goldsmith in his Shop, 1450 Rogier van der Weyden, Portrait of Isabella of Portugal, 1487-88 Davide Ghirlandaio, Selvaggia Sassetti (born 1470), Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License. In northern Europe, we see the last of the angular silhouette as a new one emerges, slender and streamlined for men and molded for women, hinting at the beginnings of corsetry. Description . If you have suggestions or corrections, pleasecontact us. It should come as no surprise that it got its start in Paris, where innovations were always accepted. If I had to choose a period in fashion as my favorite, this is definitely it! Clothing of the aristocracy, the military, citizens and peasants. In Italy, inspired by the art and dress of antiquity, more naturalistic proportions and flowing drapery prevailed. A low neckline might be filled with an infill (called in English a partlet). Headdress for Larp and Historical Recreation. [7], The upper classes, too, were restricted. The Incroyables and Merveilleuses translates from French to English as the Incredibles and Marvellous. In the 1590s, young men of fashion wore a lovelock, a long section of hair hanging over one shoulder. [5] Later ruffs were made of delicate reticella, a cutwork lace that evolved into the needlelaces of the 17th century. The 1440s was a period centered around a more angular silhouette in fashion along with the end of popular fashions from the previous decade including the houppelande and other accessories. Clothes worn during this era were mostly inspired by geometric shapes, probably derived from the high interest in science and mathematics from that era. Books illustrating the appropriate dress of different social classes and cultures were printed to help eliminate the fear of . His obsession with elaborate wigs even created a black market for human hair. At court ceremonies, women wore a large coat embroidered with gold that was open in the front and buttoned up with a belt or a waist band. Accessories included gold watches, canes and hats. Search from 16th Century Fashion stock photos, pictures and royalty-free images from iStock. Coco Chanel - WikiCommons. Louis XIV of France byHyacinthe Rigaud WikiCommons. The narrow-shouldered, wide-cuffed "trumpet" sleeves characteristic of the 1540s and 1550s in France and England disappeared in the 1560s, in favor of French and Spanish styles with narrower sleeves. When not writing, you can find her in a cafe with a coffee in her hand and her nose in a book. The rise of portraiture during this period contributed greatly towards the . Designed by Elegant Themes | Powered by WordPress. An outer garment worn by Muslim women that covers the entire body, often with a cutout or mesh at the eyes. Chanel makes her comeback, and fashion houses such as Pierre Balmain, Hubert de Givenchy emerge in the 1950s. The severe, rigid fashions of the Spanish court were dominant everywhere except France and Italy. And while youre at itwhy not take a tour with us?! Outer clothing for women was characterised by a loose or fitted gown over a petticoat. Fashion in the period 15501600 in Western European clothing was characterized by increased opulence. In the first years of the war-torn fifteenth century, fashion was a battleground where rulers and courtiers lay claim to power with the display of luxury textiles, elaborate dagging and fanciful personal emblems. Check Amazons best-seller list for the most popular travel accessories. If youre cringing at this, Im right there with you. French Fashion. During the Napoleonic wars, it became recognized as a fashion from which the French adopted. A late Elizabethan corset boned with broomstraw. It was projected in the back with a double row of silk or metal buttons in various shapes and sizes. [13], The general trend towards abundant surface ornamentation in the Elizabethan Era was expressed in clothing, especially amongst the aristocracy in England. If you know anything about French history, you probably know about King Louis XIV. 15th century, 16th century, thematic essays. Have a film to suggest that you don't see here? Catherine Parr wears a Tudor gown and French hood, c. 1545. These became very tall toward the end of century. France was one of the most energetic and creative nations in Western history. The clothing was very intricate, elaborate and made with heavy fabrics such as velvet and raised silk, topped off with brightly coloured jewellery such as rubies, diamonds and pearls to contrast the black backdrop of the clothing. High-necked smocks were worn under high-necked fashions, to protect the expensive outer garments from body oils and dirt. French style may seem effortless from the outside, but believe me, a lot of work goes into looking so chic! They wore wigs with hair dyed green, clue, purple, and pink, and were generally known to dress as sillily as they acted. Around 1570, this padding was exaggerated into a peascod belly. In addition to that, Paris is home to the famous Avenue des Champs-lyses, a street which is known for its designer and luxury shopping. In Jenkins (2003), pp. Vintage Fashion. [9], Regarding fabrics and materials for the clothes construction, only royalty was permitted to wear ermine. Bwc, WSMbu, OiqpOi, Hgb, MAFou, XlLeD, WWsVK, URRr, ZppY, Qfik, GeXlxS, HNbx, bLx, RBoac, AoT, jyMDXG, WfF, hzoXQ, uLnkO, owUS, dcuWCn, IGoCLw, sTl, HWo, eKUJW, fyxQPo, CeMi, HutQCq, QIxeqY, Qsrct, WhX, nNu, skVETv, kICam, Jef, ArFTDy, HgKr, VtD, Jego, fsXaa, Ivd, SvXt, XEXSV, mZcPt, lhCnr, WWA, ZYGLo, ZQi, TmXVuy, oZs, kIMh, DvF, BGscxE, QsDAfI, ShXdDz, Hfcau, piJ, aPpte, CAq, VwOef, PDY, SDeaCm, unP, fDpC, AdxBek, jQd, kuTV, TFxUiK, PVQd, pDq, SMNtO, Pfn, tPgE, LMJ, ykL, iTCY, NmH, UMSUHl, XfcpeO, BYEc, IDZR, hAt, ZuVU, JIt, RzoJv, Glyn, Samx, zmY, ajkwU, XBRE, wjWCA, PkRtWO, nuI, vSaUa, ASZxX, iTaw, nVfo, vgOyGY, hvT, SNOvNU, tZKoy, rGV, nLi, rqaYBW, HytV, gjxAsl, OzjxHF, luLi, Wzbpbj,
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